Dandeli a beautiful wilderness near Goa

Hide-n-seek Dandeli
by

Binoy Gupta

With idyllic surroundings, the Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary in Karnataka could be your tryst with nature.

Located in fairytale surroundings in North Karnataka, near the borders of Maharashtra and Goa, the Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary is best viewed from Sykes Point (21 km away).

One stood at this point under a light drizzle, watching in the distance the Kali river's hurried journey to the Arabian Sea. Or rather, what is left of the river, water from which has been diverted to hydro electric power station through underground tunnels. As a result, the original course is dry for a greater part of the year.
Large chunks of fluffy clouds played hide and seek first with the mountains, and then with the sun, sometimes suddenly descending into the valley and covering everything, including the riverbed. The scene was mesmerising.

Say hi to the crocodile!

The most fascinating aspect of a visit to Dandeli is the coracle ride in the Kali River. The coracle is an indigenous, saucer-shaped boat made of bamboos and covered with thick buffalo hide. It looks flimsy, but is surprisingly sturdy and just flows with the current.
As you pass the many islands, you are sure to sight crocodiles lazing on the banks. The slightest sound, and they will slither away into the river. Don't be afraid of the crocodiles, for they are more afraid of us!
You will find people washing clothes, bathing, or swimming nearby. They will tell you that there never has been a single attack by a crocodile.
Welcome to bison land
On a ride down the river, a variety of birds can be sighted. Hornbills flying around, kingfishers, darters and egrets darting into the waters in search of food, serpent eagles, falcon, magpie, robin, bulbuls, orioles, woodpeckers, weaverbirds and many more.
At the end of the journey, you can either be picked up by a jeep or walk back to your camp. You can also travel inside the forest in a jeep.

The most interesting animal in the sanctuary is the Gaur or the Indian Bison. Once they were plenty in these forests and the sanctuary itself was known as `Bison Sanctuary'. But now their numbers have dwindled.
Bison have beautiful, near-perfect horns. Male bison are short and stocky, but sturdy. They weigh between 600 and 940 kg and stand 1.6-1.9 metres at the shoulder. Female bison are only about 10 cm shorter, but lighter in build.
Other animals in the sanctuary include elephants, tigers, black panthers, wild pigs, sloth bears, wild dogs, jackal, sambar, spotted deer, barking deer, mouse deer, common langur, bonnet macaque, slender loris, Malabar giant squirrels, giant flying-squirrels, civets, porcupines, mongoose and several species of snakes.
However, animal sightings in the wild depend on sheer luck. You could either see several in a day, or none for days. During the rains, or immediately after, a tiger or panther could be lurking just a few feet away, but the thick growth and the animal's camouflage would make it practically invisible.

Sights in and around Dandeli

The Nagajhari point (14 km from Dandeli) inside the forest offers a beautiful view of the hills and the valley. On the forest edge is Dandeli town — small and idyllic.
About 25 km from Dandeli are the Kavala Caves. You have to walk down a thousand steps to reach the entrance. The ancient limestone caves show signs of human inhabitation during prehistoric times. Inside the caves is a naturally formed Shiva Linga.
About 32 km from Dandeli is the Syntheri Rock, a 300-metre monolithic granite rock. Pigeons and swifts have built nests high up on the steep rock face. Wild honeybees have built many hives, too.
Pack in some adventure
If you are fond of adventure, Dandeli offers opportunities for boating, canoeing and white-water rafting. For white-water rafting you can choose between a 9-km run lasting four hours, and a shorter, one-two hour run.
You are first taken upstream in a jeep and then taken aboard an inflatable boat. At places the water is calm, and at other places it is ferocious and you are sent hurtling down the river. Experts accompany you and even give introductory lessons in white-water rafting.
On the way back to Dandeli, you will come across Siddi tribals, whose ancestors were brought from Africa as slaves by the Portuguese four centuries ago. The Kali River is the hub of activity for Dandeli town. Six dams have been built across it to set up hydroelectric power stations. Four of these are at Supa, Bommanahalli, Kodsalli and Kadra. The other two are on its tributaries at Upper Kaneri and Tatihalla.
The sanctuary is mostly covered with deciduous and semi-evergreen forests. Dandeli is also famous for its teak. The area is rich in bamboo, and herbs and climbers of medicinal value.

The best time to visit is during or immediately after the rains. The forest is a luxuriant green, and you can feel freshness all around.

Fact file

How to get there: The nearest railway stations are Dharwad (57 km), Hubli (75 km) and Londa (35 km).
The nearest airports are Belgaum (95 km), Goa (145 km) and Hubli. Air Deccan has daily flights from Mumbai and Bangalore to Belgaum, Goa and Hubli.
Where to stay:
* Kali Wilderness Camp, owned by Jungle Lodges and Resorts Ltd (a Government of Karnataka undertaking): Ph: 080-5597021/24/25. Web site: http://www.junglelodges.com./ E-mail: junglelodges@vsnl.com
* Bison River Resort, owned by Indian Adventures Wildlife Resorts. Ph: 022-26433622 or 26408742. Web site: http://www.indianadventures.com./ E-mail: idad@bom3.vsnl.net.in
* Hornbill Resort. Ph: 094481 36539
You can opt for a daily package, which includes meals, jeep ride into the forest, a coracle ride and sightseeing, for about Rs 1,000-1,500 per person per day.
You will have to pay extra for boating, canoeing and white-water rafting (rafting is suspended during the monsoons).

When to visit

You can visit Dandeli any time of the year. During the monsoons, you may see less animals and miss white-water rafting, but the place acquires a unique ambience